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bbqking

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My SF gave me a temp drop warning last night, right at the end of my cook. I just initiated the shut down and it cooled off then I shut it down. Just went out and cleaned it out. Shop vac and all. Dumped all the pellets, then vacuumed out where the pellets go to auger. Plugged it in and was going to just do a test run, and the screen lit up, then nothing! Now I can’t get it to show any life at all. Hard to see screen because of this stupid Arizona sun, so will try again later. Anyone have a suggestion?
 

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My SF gave me a temp drop warning last night, right at the end of my cook. I just initiated the shut down and it cooled off then I shut it down. Just went out and cleaned it out. Shop vac and all. Dumped all the pellets, then vacuumed out where the pellets go to auger. Plugged it in and was going to just do a test run, and the screen lit up, then nothing! Now I can’t get it to show any life at all. Hard to see screen because of this stupid Arizona sun, so will try again later. Anyone have a suggestion?
Two quick thoughts: Assuming that you know you have power to the unit (check to see if your GFCI tripped) check the fuse next to the on-off switch to make sure it neither became loose, or blew. Second, and a bit more difficult is to check the fuse on the motherboard. I have not done that second, but a power surge could have caused either of these could have failed, especially if an extension cord is involved.

I have also seen comments on other sites that unplugging the unit, not just turning off the switch, and then re-powering cleared this problem...again no experience.
 
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The web site says fuse, Webber support walked me through getting fuse out. They said if it’s cloudy, it’s blown...not sure what could have caused it to blow. Included is fuse pic. Can’t tel it it’s blown or not.
And I just watched a video on how to replace...it looks just like this fuse. There are no burns or splits in this one I took out.
 

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Mine looked the same way. I ran a continuity test on it and it was blown. It is a weird 1.6A 250V ceramic fuse. Did Weber say were to get more? I could only find it on Amazon but some say they have found them at auto stores.

Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZLJL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Always use the switch to shut it off after the shut down completes. Use a heavy gauge extension cord if you need one.

Hope this helps.
 

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The web site says fuse, Webber support walked me through getting fuse out. They said if it’s cloudy, it’s blown...not sure what could have caused it to blow. Included is fuse pic. Can’t tel it it’s blown or not.
And I just watched a video on how to replace...it looks just like this fuse. There are no burns or splits in this one I took out.
Most quick blow fuses are ceramic as they are designed to be more rugged and avoid shattering a regular glass tube fuse. I am surprised that the Weber guy didn’t know that. The fuse on the control board, however is a regulator clear fuse.

The only way to know if a ceramic fuse is good is by doing a continuity test with a multimeter. If you don’t have one, you can easily jury-rig a continuity test with any small “d” battery, some wire and a Low voltage light such as a flashlight. DIY descriptions are on-line.
 

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As for availability locally, if you live in Phoenix or any large City, both electronic stores or larger truck and auto parts stores often have them also. They are usually used to protect circuit boards and sensitive electronic equipment from power surges... hence the term fast-blow.
 
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So after 3 trips into the local Ace, and 2 calls to Weber support, and on heck of a time getting the fuse back in!! It was just the fuse. Replaced with a glass one and it fired back up. If you read the manual it says the use a 5mmx20mm fuse. Then it also says the replacement is 6amp 250 volt. The support said it 5amp 250 volt. Which is what I put in and it now works again.
 

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So after 3 trips into the local Ace, and 2 calls to Weber support, and on heck of a time getting the fuse back in!! It was just the fuse. Replaced with a glass one and it fired back up. If you read the manual it says the use a 5mmx20mm fuse. Then it also says the replacement is 6amp 250 volt. The support said it 5amp 250 volt. Which is what I put in and it now works again.
I certainly hope that they sold you a fast blow/fast acting fuse and meets Weber specifications on page 31 of their manual of only 1.6 amp at 250 volt...otherwise, IMO, you run the risk of destroying the control board.
Not trying to give you a hard time, but it could be like pitting a penny in the old screw-in household fuse panels...electronic circuits are extremely sensitive to surges.
 
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bbqking

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Well idk if it’s a fast acting fuse or not. The guy at Weber asurred me what I needed and said nothing about surges, fast acting...or anything like that. I questioned him about warranty too. He said warranty still good.
Says it’s a time delay fuse. S506, TSD fuse? Not sure what that means.
 
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bbqking

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After research it’s not a fast acting fuse...well poop! Just orderred the correct ones on amazon.
 

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Well idk if it’s a fast acting fuse or not. The guy at Weber asurred me what I needed and said nothing about surges, fast acting...or anything like that. I questioned him about warranty too. He said warranty still good.
Says it’s a time delay fuse. S506, TSD fuse? Not sure what that means.
That is the fuse on the control board, if I am not mistaken but perhaps you should ask for clarification from Weber, as the board fuse is much smaller.
 
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No, the fuse I replace was in between the power switch and where the power cord pugs in. Right in between them
 

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No, the fuse I replace was in between the power switch and where the power cord pugs in. Right in between them
That is the F1.6Amp250volt fast blow ceramic fuse that is located between the plug and switch. Sorry if I have confused the issue I apologize.
 
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Again, I apolozige as you bought the the correct size as according to page 31 of the manual “The grill’s power supply utilizes a 5 Amp. 120 Volt Cartridge fuse.”

But then it cautions that the correct fuse is: “5x20MM FAST BLOW 1.6 A @240 VAC”. It also goes on to say that “NOTE: If the fuse has blown, it will look slightly burned or split”

signing off with my apology.
 
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It’s all good. No worries dude. It was confusing for a non technical guy like me...I don’t get half of the stuff out there, I do have a little common sense. I was just worried my beloved SmokeFire was ruined....
 
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The one I replaced is right between the power switch and where the power cord plugs in. I used a 5amp 250 volt, glass fuse and it works fine. Not sure where the others are. Note: I orderred actual ceramic fast acting fuses from amazon to replace, as the one I got is slow acting.
 

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So, are there two fuses? I'd like to have some on hand just in case. Which one is located where?
5amp 250v
1.6amp 240v ceramic
If you have the owners manual, look on page 31 for the correct specification. According to that they claim the correct fuse is a fast blow ceramic 1.6 amp fuse rated at 250 volts. I simple terms, Here is why.

According to Ohm’s Law watts/volts= amps.

(1) The Smoke Fire, according to Weber is rated @100 watts, although the average watt draw on the SmokeFire is around 85 watts.

(2) The unit operates on normal house voltage of 120volts, (not 240 or 250), but nominal is closer to 110 to 115 volts. So let’s say 115 volts.

(3) Therefore: 85/115= .74 amps, or 100/115=.87 amps.

(4) However, house voltage can vary to as low as 110 volts, or lower at the SF plug when you use an extension cord, plus on start-up there is always a minor, instantaneous current in-rush or surge. Hence, Weber decided to use a 1.6 Amp fuse, which could handle such circumstances and made it a fast blow to protect from power surges. This gives you up to around 192 watts @115 volts (assuming you are actually getting that voltage at the SF unit) before the fuse blows.

(5) As for the 250 volt rating of the fuse, that means it can handle the normal variations in power supplied by your utility (I monitor mine continuously, and it varies between 111 and 118 volts) across a typical day depending what other loads are being exerted on the pole mounted utilities transformer that also services my neighbors). The key is that it will blow quickly at wattage that exceeds 192.

(6) The model number of this fuse is a 5x20MM. The five is not an amp rating, because a 5 amp fuse at 115 volts would not blow until it sees a 575 watt draw from the SF, which would “fry” the unit since it is rated at only 100 watts. 5*115=575 watts.

Bottom line: only replace your fuse with a 1.6 amp, 250 volt fast blow ceramic fuse, or F1.6A250V
 
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If you have the owners manual, look on page 31 for the correct specification. According to that they claim the correct fuse is a fast blow ceramic 1.6 amp fuse rated at 250 volts. I simple terms, Here is why.

According to Ohm’s Law watts/volts= amps.

(1) The Smoke Fire, according to Weber is rated @100 watts, although the average watt draw on the SmokeFire is around 85 watts.

(2) The unit operates on normal house voltage of 120volts, (not 240 or 250), but nominal is closer to 110 to 115 volts. So let’s say 115 volts.

(3) Therefore: 85/115= .74 amps, or 100/115=.87 amps.

(4) However, house voltage can vary to as low as 110 volts, or lower when you use an extension cord, plus on start-up there is always a minor, instantaneous current in-rush or surge. Hence, Weber decided to use a 1.6 Amp fuse, which could handle such circumstances and made it a fast blow to protect from power surges. This gives you up to around 192 watts @115 volts (assuming you are actually getting that voltage at the SF unit) before the fuse blows.

(5) As for the 250 volt rating of the fuse, that means it can handle the normal variations in power supplied by you utility (I monitor mine continuously, and it varies between 111 and 118 volts) across a typical day depending what other loads are being exerted on the pole mounted utilities transformer that also services my neighbors). The key is that it will blow quickly at wattage that exceeds 192.

(6) The model number of this fuse is a 5*20MM. The five is not an amp rating, because a 5 amps fuse at 115 volts would not blow until it sees a 575 watt draw from the SF, which would “fry” the unit. 5*115=585 watts.

Bottom line: only replace your fuse with a 1.6 amp, 250 volt fast blow ceramic fuse, or F1.6A250V
Then the 5 amp is not correct? Because that’s what the manual said, anc that’s what the Weber rep said? Unless I read it wrong. I looked right at the 1.6 amp fuses and there was no way they would replace the one o took out. Too small.
 

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